Saturday, September 10, 2011

Guy Savoy - Modern French in Las Vegas

I wanted to share some photos from a (mostly) excellent dinner at Guy Savoy at Caesar's Palace. I ordered the six course tasting menu (Menu Elegance), exchanging a Grapefruit Terrine for the Jasmine and Chocolate. Of the dishes four of them were really quite distinguished, revealing that some French chefs (i.e. Guy Savoy) have embraced the modernist chef's love of all things vegetable.

Lobster in Cold Steam, served in a cool steam bath, was superb, the high point of the night. The sweetness of the lobster was echoed in the sweet, crackly, sugary accompaniments. It could have been dessert and a perfect one.

Guy Savoy - Las Vegas - August 2011 - Lobster in Cold Steam

The Roasted John Dory in Basil Crust was, in contrast, a huge disappointment. Although well-cooked, the dish lacked any excitement. The basil "crust" was not much to look at or to taste.

Guy Savoy - Las Vegas - August 2011 - Roasted John Dory in Basil Crust

The third course, Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup with squares of parmesan and truffle was intensely, insanely rich. A glorious soup.

Guy Savoy - Las Vegas - August 2011 - Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche, Parmesan Squares, and Black Truffle Butter

Roasted duck with raw and cooked vegetables and spinach puree was a modernist take on duck, avoiding the usual sticky sweet, fruity sauce that is usually paired. Chef Savoy breaks through the stereotype of duck to great effect.

Guy Savoy - Las Vegas - August 2011 - Roasted Duck, Raw and Cooked Vegetables and Spinach Puree

Cantaloupe and cucumber was powerful with its combination of textures and herbaceous flavors. It was more of a palate cleanser than a dessert and gains credit for its awakenings.

Guy Savoy - Las Vegas - August 2011 - Cantaloupe and Cucumber

The grapefruit terrine was nicely made, but was somewhat dull. It was not a visionary dessert, although it was served with a witty cookie.

Guy Savoy - Las Vegas - August 2011 Grapefruit Terrine with Gingerbread Cookie

While Guy Savoy misses being the best meal of the year, it was, despite its location, a serious restaurant and the most accomplished meal of my four nights in Las Vegas. The restaurant is more sedate than jazzy, and that, too, is to GS's credit.

Restaurant Guy Savoy
Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109